Acura RL Radiator Replacement

Acura RL Radiator Replacement: Timelapse video of entire job with important trouble-saving secrets about the job. This particular car is a 1998 Acura RL 3.5 with Auto and AC but most of the included secrets to the job apply to other years/models. The secrets contained in video are listed below, for your convenience:

-Use Extreme caution whenever working with hot engine coolant. Before starting, make sure the engine is cool to the touch. It’s also recommended to have a garden hose or 5 gallon bucket of cool water ready in case of burns from hot coolant.

-You do not need to remove the traction control unit or the throttle body. Only the top of the air box and air filter ( so it doesn't get wet with and coolant ) and first air inlet hose need to be removed.

-The fans will be easier to remove if you lift the power steering reservoir from the bracket and hold it aside.
Then you can slide fans toward the passenger side of car to get the fans out and up to remove. Both fans were removed via the passenger side of car.

-The bottom fan-to-radiator bolts will most likely break in the process of removing from these type of radiators. (open steel nut in molded plastic radiator tank with a steel bolt) Water plus salt plus steel = rust. These bolts are 6mm x 1 pitch, 16mm long with a small fender washer on them.

-Be careful with the length of the bolts when re-installing. Too long and they will puncture the plastic radiator tank. Look at the back side of the nut in relation to the tank as you tighten the bolt. If it touches the tank, remove and shorten bolt. Bolts should be just long enough to capture nut and tighten.

-When filling coolant let the fan cycle 2 or 3 times while monitoring engine temp with scan tool.( OBD2 or OEM ) ECT (electronic coolant temp) pid. That's my personal preferred method to monitor engine temp you can also look at the gauge in the car but it is not as accurate. And NEVER let a gasoline engine temp above 235f rad cap on and 208f rad cap off.

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