Super original kind of surfing

What it — to be on the roll? Devil take it! Yes it can't be described. How to teach it? I don't know. It is possible, of course, to advise to hold balance, to relax, concentrate, and other dregs in the spirit of the master Yoda, but it is all the same won't help. No, all secret here that you either do it, or isn't present!

The most part of time you as an alga, you drift on a surface. You wait for a good wave. You lie on a board blindly and you miss. The sun burns. Small waves swing your legs. You hear easy splashes. Somewhere seagulls shout. Sometimes wind brings human voices from the coast. You listen to everything and you listen … And here sounds begin to merge with noise of the sea. They turn in ancient as the world, the song endlessly and I have begun. But to hear her that in general to hear something, it is necessary to be silent most. To be silent even mentally. And then everything occurs … It as with stereopictures … At first you attentively look at some unclear nonsense, then slowly you look away and you see … You see how you are winked by cheerful Mickey Mouse!
Sometimes, lying on a board, I think about sharks. I imagine how they look at me from below from depth. Probably, I seem to them the, just with the fins which are drawn in to sides. Perhaps, they think: "And what, interestingly, this guy drifts on a surface? There all the same there is no fish and heat impossible …"
At this time here a lot of sharks is fed, but they attack people seldom. The devil only knows, why!, It seems, snack that it is necessary, tasty and helpless … And maybe, him really simply laziness to rise from cool depths here, in this scorching heat?
In general, cool fishes these sharks. Did you know, for example, that they carry out all the life swimming? Sharks don't know at all what is drift! They always somewhere float, and stop only to die. But they never, of course, stop and therefore it is possible to tell that they don't die at all...